A packed crowd gathers around a fire at a night Theyyam in Kannur, the performer in a tall red headdress standing among the flames

In season: Theyyam, from late October

Where the Gods still come down to be seen.

Travel stories and field guides from India's roads, rituals and seasons.

Theyyam season opens in North Malabar this month. Start with our field guide, then read on across India: roads, forts, passes and first trips abroad.

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Latest from the road

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Data stories

Stories with the numbers behind them.

Where visitors actually go, when it rains, what things cost. We chart the official figures, link every source and show the table.

Read: Kerala has more visitors than ever. Few go north →

Source: Kerala Tourism, Tourist Statistics 2024.

5.1%

of Kerala's domestic visits went to Kannur and Kasaragod in 2024

1,142,551 of 22,246,989

0.9%

of its foreign visits did

6,424 of 738,374

42×

Ernakulam's foreign visits compared with the two northern districts combined

268,614 vs 6,424

Flagship · Kerala and Theyyam

A season of living ritual in North Malabar.

Field guides, season notes and first-hand stories on Theyyam and the Kerala around it, written with consent and credit to the families who carry the ritual.

Enter the Kerala hub

The Theyyam season

Late October to the end of May, busiest from January to April.

JUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDECJANFEBMARAPRMAY

Destinations, explored for depth

All 22 destinations →
A canoeist under a purple umbrella on the misty backwaters near Alappuzha, Kerala

Kerala

Theyyam season · Temple towns · Backwaters

Atul Krishnan leaning on a green Jimny on a rocky mountain road

The editor

Atul Krishnan

Travel should slow you down enough to notice how roads, weather, food, architecture, language and memory shape a place.

Read the travel philosophy →

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